A linen go well with is the proper method to put on tailoring throughout the summer time with out overheating. Right here we have a look at the whole lot it is advisable to learn about shopping for a linen go well with, from the place to purchase to learn how to put on it
Unhealthy linen fits, the lumpy, crinkly, misshapen type that resemble a discarded sack of potatoes, have given the model a foul rep over time. However for those who perceive that high quality (and the next value) is a prerogative, then you definitely’ll quickly realise there really is not any higher method to do tailoring within the sweaty, sticky summer time.
For the uninitiated, linen is a pure fibre that comes from the flax plant, the identify having derived from the Latin identify of the plant. “Earlier than the appearance of synthetic fibres, linen was usually used because the inside layer of pricey clothes, which is why it's nonetheless known as lining,” says Holger Auffenberg, head of design at Savile Row tailor Chester Barrie.
However, someplace alongside the road, linen graduated to full go well with standing. It’s perhaps the last word warm-weather cloth and a vastly underrated alternative for tailoring. Right here’s the whole lot it is advisable to know.
Why Purchase A Linen Go well with?
Linen’s historical past as one of the attention-grabbing and sensible supplies in clothes owes a lot to its secret powers, colleges that basically come to the fore in sizzling climate. Good high quality linen isn’t essentially light-weight, however its low thread rely makes it cooler than cotton whereas it’s additionally mentioned to be 30 per cent stronger than its summer time cloth rival.
“Linen additionally absorbs water whereas a high-quality linen go well with can be at its finest for longer than a cotton or conventional wool go well with attributable to its pure resilience,” says Simon Maloney, artistic director at bespoke clothier New & Lingwood.
“Though a high-quality linen go well with will really feel rougher than a brand new cotton or wool go well with it does get softer over time and is conveniently hypoallergenic, so it doesn’t must be aired out after dry cleansing like a wool go well with.”
The foremost difficulty with linen is after all how simply it creases, a priority to be embraced relatively than be afraid of, in response to Christopher Modoo, artistic director at tailoring model Equipment Blake.
“Linen creases, take care of it,” he says. “The heavier, textured linens are likely to crumple elegantly however remember that it isn't a pristine look. Merely put, linen is for assured dressers. In case you are anxious about creasing or simply searching for one thing a little bit extra refined, think about a mix of linen with wool and silk.”
What To Look For In A Linen Go well with
When looking for a linen go well with, Modoo mentions a couple of hallmarks of high quality that it pays to recollect. “A linen go well with must be solely partially lined so search for fashions with buggy-lining (a lining that solely covers the again shoulders of the jacket).
“Facet patch pockets must be much less cumbersome than [on] a conventional go well with and ensure the trousers are unlined. Plenty of excessive avenue manufacturers line their linen trousers in man-made fibres which causes them to put on heat and never maintain a crease.
“It’s additionally value contemplating an unstructured model as it will have much less bulk, however they could be a little shapeless.”
How To Put on A Linen Go well with
While linen is naturally more casual than other suit fabrics, it’s still a smart replacement for your wool suits around the office when the train into work shifts into sweat box territory.
Avoid pairing a linen suit with a linen shirt though. The elegantly crumpled texture of linen looks far superior and calculated when put alongside a crisp cotton shirt for contrasting texture. Tie wise, a patterned option will slot nicely into linen’s casual nature.
Smart-casual is where linen really excels. Yes you can wear an unbuttoned dress shirt for any summer weddings you have coming up but if you want to take it down a notch further, and prevent any sweat patches while you’re at it, swap it out for a pique cotton polo shirt.
The textured weave of the pique disguises perspiration while also contrasting with the texture of the linen. With it being summer and all, you can also free those mankles and get some much-needed circulation via a neat turn-up and a sly ankle sock.
The good thing about a linen suit is you’re already starting to stray from the script, which makes it easier to completely divert away from the suit’s natural formality. It doesn’t get more casual than a T-shirt but if you’re going to attempt the once-unthinkable and pair your tailoring with one it’s best to play it neutral with the colour.
A white or grey tee works best in summer and allows you to play it up with the colour of your tailoring, while a black tee with a bottle green suit is a deadly combo for a night out. Keep the minimalism and rule-breaking in your footwear by tossing the dress shoes and slipping a slick pair of white calf-skin trainers on instead.
Best Linen Suit Brands
Richard James swept away the cobwebs that had accumulated down Savile Rowwhen it opened on the hallowed street in 1992, introducing a more fashion-orientated way of thinking about tailoring. And it continues to effortlessly blend the traditional with a forward-thinking approach today.
Take this summery linen suit from the brand, for example, which takes the 2019 Pantone colour of the year, coral, and lovingly splays it over an elegant two-piece.
With its name an amalgamation of the town where its first factory was located and the surname of Peter Pan author J.M. Barrie, Chester Barrie is a tailoring institution that can claim credit to having outfitted some of the creme de la creme of suit wearers during its illustrious history, including Sir Winston Churchill and Cary Grant.
Expect this tradition to seep into every pore of its suits, with old-school touches like herringbone weaves and masterfully chunky lapels.
Collection of Style, more commonly known as Cos, sits front and centre in the H&M group crown. The premium chain is one of the best spots for affordable tailoring on the high street, excelling at a relaxed and loose style that plays well with its Scandinavian heritage – it’s just the vibe you want to channel with your linen suit.
Cut to drape slightly over the shoulders, its linen is also blended with eco-friendly lyocell, which like linen offers much better moisture absorption than cotton, while its smooth fibres soften the natural roughness of its partner-in-crime.
New York fashion label Theory excels at premium basics where the emphasis is on cut and fabric. The brand has just released a line woven in Italy which is crafted out of eco-friendly, sustainable linen that has been blended with recycled elastane for a comfortable stretch.
Three suits stand as a centrepiece to the collection, cut with an unstructured silhouette and an elegant drape, they are the epitome of what a modern linen suit should be – simple, sustainable and undoubtedly stylish.